CONTROL YOKE TUBES &
To: Steve Wilson (SteveWlson@aol.com)
From: Mike Cochran (COCHRAN@digisys.net)
Subject: Re: Swift Control Column Bearings
I saw you listed in the
AOL chat pages and wondered if you could get me to the right person. I
am fortunate enough to get to fly and work on s/n 3757 N2457B here in
Montata, but the problem I have is with the bearings in the control tube
to the square stock bearings. I can't get them to run smooth and loose
enough to be totaly comfortable, especially in the landing flair. If you
have a person or any suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks. Mike Cochran
Hi Mike...I'm gonna send
this along to Jim Montague at the same time as I reply for his comments.
The major wear area I've found on the original yoke tubes is where they
go through the panel bushings. Most of these were/are a phenolic bushing
that wear groves into the tube. They hang up there usually when you would
least want them to, like during the flare. I've replaced a lot of tubes
over the years. I think Swift Parts still has new ones in stock. I've
also done a cheap fix by turning them over, since the wear is mostly on
the bottom. Some Teflon bushings have been produced over the years by
various persons and they really make the tubes slide nicely with no wear.
Right now I do not know a source for these. Personally I've never had
a bearing problem where you describe, although I've found everyone I've
taken apart to be really dirty and need lots of TLC to get everything
working slick. I'll let Monty address the bearings if he has knowledge.
(Jim's reply...) Mike,
I don't think your problem is with those bearings. I think your control
tubes are worn where they rest on the phenolic bushing where they pass
thru the panel. They typically get a groove worn after hours of operation.
The tubes can be replaced, or simply turned over. Or, the groove can be
filled with body filler, sanded smooth, and a telon "roll wrap" shrunk
onto the tube. You want telon slightly larger in ID than the tube OD.
Its been a long time, but I think "roll wrap" is a teflon tubing made
for printing rolls. If the bearings are the problem you may have to remove
them to lubricate them, or replace them. ...Jim Montague
CONTROL YOKE TUBES &
BEARINGS PART TWO...
Subject: Re: bearings
Thanks for the reply. I just e-mailed Steve as well. I appreciate the
info on the control column tubes, I will have to take a look at that.
The problem really seems to be in those bearings at the fwd end of the
tube. The O.D. of the bearings that we bought were just a hair larger
than the ones we removed, so with all of the new bearings in on both the
columns were very hard to move. I was just wondering what the others were
doing for this problem, or if we are just unique. ...Mike
Oh! Well, thats different! I mean, if you install larger OD bearings,
well, I mean what can you expect? There can't be any looseness at this
point, but you don't want it tight either. Probably no one else ever had
this problem. You will have to custom fit the bearings by reducing their
diameter, or reduce the diameter of the square shaft they ride on. Are
any of the old bearings servicable? You might try a combination of new
and old bearings to achive a perfect fit. -- Jim
FIN AND RUDDER CHANGE...
My logs indicate that in 1950, "installed new type fin and rudder." What
do they mean "new type"?
Bob Runge (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Your airplane is a converted GC-1A, the GC-1A had a different vertical
fin, and a fabric covered rudder. What they should have said was, "installed
GC-1B vertical fin, p/n 11-120-3378, and rudder p/n 11-140-3360" Isn't
that log entry also part of the conversion from GC-1A to GC-1B? Isn't
there a 337 form? Hope this helps. -- Jim
A RIVETING TALE (well,
From: Eddie Shields (WVSWIFT@aol.com)
Re: Swift aileron
I need to know how to line up my aileron prior to start riveting it back
together. Is it a straight aileron or does it have a twist? If so, how
much? I didnt realize how much it would move around without skins on both
sides. Eddie Shields 2403B
As far as I know it straight. It should line up correctly when you cleco
the skins in place. You did back drill them using the old skins, right?
I did back drill all the skins from the old skins but didnt do the trailing
edge. I wanted to do that to have a nice straight row of rivets and use
my air rivit squeezer to avoid bowing. I have already bucked the top skin
on by using the old bottom skin in place since I emailed you. It looks
as though it is going to be OK. Thanks, Eddie
SPRING HAS SPRUNG???
From: Dick Aaron <email@example.com>
Subject: Re: Curiosity
I just spent an enjoyable week-end in my Swift's tail cleaning up and
removing old wiring, etc. While there I noticed three aluminum tabs; two
were attached to the elevator bellcrank (one top and one bottom) and one
to the bottom stringer in the last (rearmost) bay. They're approximately
11/2" - 2" long and have holes in the free end. There's no problem, but
I was just curious what they were for: some sort of trim spring system
at one time?
If you look in the Swift Parts Catalog on Pg. 36 you'll see #10 SPRING,
then over on the other page its called BUNGEE 11-532-3271. Curiously,
it only shows one spring, not two, and I know for a fact many Swifts have
two springs, to center the elevators. One of the requirements for some
of the "big engine" STCs is to remove the spring, so it must not be too
important. For example - STC SA53NW - Installation of Continental IO-360
engine; Step I. Items to be removed F. Remove the bungee (Univair Parts
Catalog, part no. 11-132-3271). This spring is located in the tail section
between stations 167 and 185.
MORE FASTER -- FASTER...
From: "Pete King" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: "Denis M. Arbeau" <email@example.com>
Subject: Re: Faster -- Faster
...my elevators are always slightly drooped in level flight -- even with
the CG forward when I'm light -- this drag that has got to cost me something
-- don't know the proper fix! The bird has always been fairly quick.
Although I've never done it, the angle of incidence of the horizontal
stab can be changed. Buzz Winslow in Ohio knows how to do this but he
is not "on-line". Maybe Jim Montague <firstname.lastname@example.org> or Mark
Holliday <email@example.com> might know. Let me know what you find
out. -- Denis
(Pete and I heard from Jim
Montague as follows...)
I only recommend changing early GC-1A's to the dimension of the later
Temco's. This is done by changing the rear attach bracket to one the same
height as a later s/n. The early s/n's had a "taller" bracket. N80665
is a fairly early 125 so it might be the same as a GC-1A - compare it
to N80518. Just for you I looked in the parts calalog and its item 13
on Pg. 34. (PLATE 11-213-1482) If at normal cruise you have trim tab deflection
you might gain from changing the stab incidence. If your elevator trim
tab is (already) streamlined, changing the incidence will slow you down.
Many guys have changed it too much -- Jim
STICK STC... (12299)
From: Randy Erwin <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Re: Swift project
Can you tell me what's involved in the STC for the stick mod? Is it a
major modification in terms of money and/or time? Randy
There are 3 different STC's for installing sticks, the original Lischer
sticks, Don Bartholowmew's version (NV), and Jim Thomason's STC (SC) The
STC for the Lischer sticks is held by Monte Zema (WA) (509) 684-2601 Don
Bartolomew can be reached at: email@example.com
. Jim Thomason can be reached at: firstname.lastname@example.org.
I'm not sure of prices, I think they are between 2,000 and 3,000 dolllars.--
ELEVATOR CABLE PULLEYS...
Subj: Fwd: elevator pulleys
From: Eddie Shields <WVSWIFT>
Jim, Do you know the part number to the elevator cable pulleys at
sta 62?? I need two and cant find p/n .. I wanted to order on line with
SWIFTPARTS.COM Thanks -- Eddie
I went over to the airport and measured those pulleys at sta. 62. They
are 2" dia. measured a the major diameter. I looked in Aircraft Spruces'
catalogue and I believe that is an AN210-3A pulley. -- Jim
CONTROL YOKE TUBES...(120201)
Subj: Yoke tubes
From: Don Cumpston <email@example.com>
Jim: On my Swift the Yoke tubes are worn on the bottom at neutral position.
Can these tubes be rotated 180 degrees? How much of a job is it and is
it practical? Thanks, Don
Yes, that is a good idea and has been done. How hard it is depends on
your physical condition! I have done it several times. Some guys apply
2" wide Teflon tape to the bottom of the tubes. Others have used
Teflon tubing just the right size to slip over the tubes, then shrunk
it down tight with heat. They have found this tubing marketed as "roll
wrap" - sold for rollers - I think in the printing industry. -- Jim
ANOTHER REASON FOR STIFF
Subject: Re: December #2 GTS Internet Update - comment
From: John Lindley <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Another hidden place for drag in the elevators are the rollers that are
inside the control yoke tubes. I'm sure that you know this, but it took
me a long time to find them. Jack
Jack - You're absolutely right. I should have mentioned that. If the grease
has dried up in those bearings they can rotate hard. Also, I know of at
least one case where the bearings were replaced and they were just slightly
bigger than the 1946 originals, and made the elevators even harder to
move. About all I could think of in that instance was to polish the square
shaft down a couple thousandths. -- Jim
78276 IS IN THE PAINT SHOP...(OCT 02)
Subj: Painting & Washer Questions
From: Jeff Wimmer <email@example.com>
N78276 is FINALLY in the paint shop being prepped for her new set of clothes....
By the way, it's amazing how much damage you don't notice until cleaning
up and prepping the aircraft! It had a bunch of hail dings that we never
knew were there!!! Even though it was bare, it wasn't polished, and the
dings were not apparent in the dull aluminum. Now I feel better about
making the decision to paint it, as the skins were NOT in as good a shape
as we thought! (So, there!!! to the people who gave me grief at "National"
about my plans to paint instead of polish) Anyway, two questions: 1. The
paint shop is asking about the proper procedure(s) for control surface
balancing. I checked the archives and only found one brief mention about
balancing the airlerons, but no detail. Is there any information, procedures
or anything else regarding control surface balancing that the shop should
be aware of? 2. I purchased a kit of those special washers as well as
all the screws and nuts from Swift for the paint shop to use when they
reassemble the control surfaces to the aircraft. They asked me today:
Are those special conical washers used on ALL of the control surface bearings?
The rudder too? Lastly, is there anything else we should know when they
put it back together? Thanks, in advance, for your assistance! Jeff Wimmer
The ailerons are balanced 100%. This is easily checked suspending the
aileron upside down from the hinge points. The rudder is not balanced,
except for the aerodynamic balance of the portion of the rudder cap ahead
of the hinge line. The flaps are not balanced. The elevators about 50
to 75% -- I've never exactly measured them. They are quite tail heavy
when you suspend them from the hinge points. Those washers are to be used
against a KS-3L bearing. The "S" denoting "swivel".
The flaps and ailerons have KS-3L bearings, the elevators and rudder have
K3L bearings. They don't swivel and don't need those washers. For the
AN3 bolts and AN365 nuts a ratcheting box wrench is available from NAPA
which works great. -- Jim
SITCK INSTALLATION... (JUNE 03)
From: Bruce Ray <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Looking into putting Sticks in my airplane. How extensive is this and
who do I contact to find out about the best thing going. I just yanked
the instrument panel out and thought it would be a good time to do the
Sticks conversion as well. By the way there is alot of "SHTUFF"
for controls...does that all come out when you do the sticks conversion.
Thank you, Bruce Ray N80644
Yes, most of that extra stuff can come out. To be specific, I would call
one of the STC holders to ask specific questions. There a three STC's
that I know of.
Jim Thomason - 1-864-994-3131
Don Bartholomew - 1-775-782-2982
Monte Zema 1-509-684-2601
I believe they are priced
between 2,000 and 3,000 dollars. They are priced between 2000 and 3000
dollars. The Thomason sticks are the cheapest and the Bartholomew sticks
are the most deluxe, with ball bearings etc. I put in one set of sticks,
the Lischer sticks, now owned by Monte Zema, and didn't think it was too
hard a job. -- Jim
ONE FOR EACH HAND??? (OCT 03)
Subj: Two Throttles?
From: Bruce Ray <email@example.com>
I have just finished installing the Thomason sticks in my swift and the
STC calls only for "moving" the throttle/throttle quadrant to
the left side if desired. With this you have to put the placard "Solo
from left seat only" Are there any STC's that will allow for leaving
the throttle in the middle and adding an additional throttle cable on
the left side. I guess the reason that I would like to do this is because
I fly helicopters for a living and find it more easy to use the stick
in my right hand and the throttle in my left. Let me know what you think.
Thank you again for all your hard work and dedication to the Swifters.
Bruce Ray N80644 Enterprise, AL
I don't know of any STCs that specifically call that out, but I would
think that if you left the original throttle at the center of the panel
and had two throttles that would work Ok. Do you want to solo from the
right? -- Jim
MORE ON THE TWO THROTTLES DEAL... (OCT 03)
Subj: Re: Two Throttles?
From: Bruce Ray <firstname.lastname@example.org>
I may have confused you. This STC does not allow a second throttle to
be installed. It only says you can move it. I was wanting to have a throttle
in the middle and on the left. That way someone could fly with me and
have a throttle as well. I certainly don't want to solo from the right...NO
BRAKES>..yikes! Let me know if there is a way to have two throttles.
Why don't you go to the man himself and ask him? Jim Thomason <MOUNTVILLE@aol.com>
should know. I think Roy Harmening had a field approval on two throttles.
GREASE IS THE WORD...(JUNE
From: Jerry Bauerle <email@example.com>
Jim, what kind of grease do you use in the flight control bearings? --
Asuming you have a bearing greaser (available from Aircraft Spruce and
others) Aeroshell 5 works fine. -- Jim