To: Steve Wilson (SteveWlson@aol.com)
From: Mike Cochran (COCHRAN@digisys.net)
Subject: Re: Swift Control Column Bearings

I saw you listed in the AOL chat pages and wondered if you could get me to the right person. I am fortunate enough to get to fly and work on s/n 3757 N2457B here in Montata, but the problem I have is with the bearings in the control tube to the square stock bearings. I can't get them to run smooth and loose enough to be totaly comfortable, especially in the landing flair. If you have a person or any suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks. Mike Cochran

Hi Mike...I'm gonna send this along to Jim Montague at the same time as I reply for his comments. The major wear area I've found on the original yoke tubes is where they go through the panel bushings. Most of these were/are a phenolic bushing that wear groves into the tube. They hang up there usually when you would least want them to, like during the flare. I've replaced a lot of tubes over the years. I think Swift Parts still has new ones in stock. I've also done a cheap fix by turning them over, since the wear is mostly on the bottom. Some Teflon bushings have been produced over the years by various persons and they really make the tubes slide nicely with no wear. Right now I do not know a source for these. Personally I've never had a bearing problem where you describe, although I've found everyone I've taken apart to be really dirty and need lots of TLC to get everything working slick. I'll let Monty address the bearings if he has knowledge. ...Steve

(Jim's reply...) Mike,
I don't think your problem is with those bearings. I think your control tubes are worn where they rest on the phenolic bushing where they pass thru the panel. They typically get a groove worn after hours of operation. The tubes can be replaced, or simply turned over. Or, the groove can be filled with body filler, sanded smooth, and a telon "roll wrap" shrunk onto the tube. You want telon slightly larger in ID than the tube OD. Its been a long time, but I think "roll wrap" is a teflon tubing made for printing rolls. If the bearings are the problem you may have to remove them to lubricate them, or replace them. ...Jim Montague

To: Monty747@aol.com
From: COCHRAN@digisys.net
Subject: Re: bearings
Thanks for the reply. I just e-mailed Steve as well. I appreciate the info on the control column tubes, I will have to take a look at that. The problem really seems to be in those bearings at the fwd end of the tube. The O.D. of the bearings that we bought were just a hair larger than the ones we removed, so with all of the new bearings in on both the columns were very hard to move. I was just wondering what the others were doing for this problem, or if we are just unique. ...Mike

Oh! Well, thats different! I mean, if you install larger OD bearings, well, I mean what can you expect? There can't be any looseness at this point, but you don't want it tight either. Probably no one else ever had this problem. You will have to custom fit the bearings by reducing their diameter, or reduce the diameter of the square shaft they ride on. Are any of the old bearings servicable? You might try a combination of new and old bearings to achive a perfect fit.  --  Jim

My logs indicate that in 1950, "installed new type fin and rudder." What do they mean "new type"?
Bob Runge (ejectr@javanet.com)

Your airplane is a converted GC-1A, the GC-1A had a different vertical fin, and a fabric covered rudder. What they should have said was, "installed GC-1B vertical fin, p/n 11-120-3378, and rudder p/n 11-140-3360" Isn't that log entry also part of the conversion from GC-1A to GC-1B? Isn't there a 337 form?  Hope this helps.  --  Jim

A RIVETING TALE (well, aileron, actually)...
From: Eddie Shields (WVSWIFT@aol.com)
Re: Swift aileron
I need to know how to line up my aileron prior to start riveting it back together. Is it a straight aileron or does it have a twist? If so, how much? I didnt realize how much it would move around without skins on both sides. Eddie Shields 2403B

As far as I know it straight. It should line up correctly when you cleco the skins in place. You did back drill them using the old skins, right?  --  Jim

I did back drill all the skins from the old skins but didnt do the trailing edge. I wanted to do that to have a nice straight row of rivets and use my air rivit squeezer to avoid bowing. I have already bucked the top skin on by using the old bottom skin in place since I emailed you. It looks as though it is going to be OK.  Thanks, Eddie

From: Dick Aaron <aaron@pica.army.mil>
Subject: Re: Curiosity
I just spent an enjoyable week-end in my Swift's tail cleaning up and removing old wiring, etc. While there I noticed three aluminum tabs; two were attached to the elevator bellcrank (one top and one bottom) and one to the bottom stringer in the last (rearmost) bay. They're approximately 11/2" - 2" long and have holes in the free end. There's no problem, but I was just curious what they were for: some sort of trim spring system at one time?

If you look in the Swift Parts Catalog on Pg. 36 you'll see #10 SPRING, then over on the other page its called BUNGEE 11-532-3271. Curiously, it only shows one spring, not two, and I know for a fact many Swifts have two springs, to center the elevators. One of the requirements for some of the "big engine" STCs is to remove the spring, so it must not be too important. For example - STC SA53NW - Installation of Continental IO-360 engine; Step I. Items to be removed F. Remove the bungee (Univair Parts Catalog, part no. 11-132-3271). This spring is located in the tail section between stations 167 and 185.

MORE FASTER -- FASTER...  (10399)
From: "Pete King" <peetking@earthlink.net>
To: "Denis M. Arbeau" <arbeau@napanet.net>
Subject: Re: Faster -- Faster
Hi, Denis
...my elevators are always slightly drooped in level flight -- even with the CG forward when I'm light -- this drag that has got to cost me something -- don't know the proper fix! The bird has always been fairly quick.

Although I've never done it, the angle of incidence of the horizontal stab can be changed. Buzz Winslow in Ohio knows how to do this but he is not "on-line". Maybe Jim Montague <monty747@aol.com> or Mark Holliday <markh85@aol.com> might know. Let me know what you find out. -- Denis

(Pete and I heard from Jim Montague as follows...)

I only recommend changing early GC-1A's to the dimension of the later Temco's. This is done by changing the rear attach bracket to one the same height as a later s/n. The early s/n's had a "taller" bracket. N80665 is a fairly early 125 so it might be the same as a GC-1A - compare it to N80518. Just for you I looked in the parts calalog and its item 13 on Pg. 34. (PLATE 11-213-1482) If at normal cruise you have trim tab deflection you might gain from changing the stab incidence. If your elevator trim tab is (already) streamlined, changing the incidence will slow you down. Many guys have changed it too much -- Jim

STICK STC...  (12299)
From: Randy Erwin <randy@mind.net>
Subject: Re: Swift project
Can you tell me what's involved in the STC for the stick mod? Is it a major modification in terms of money and/or time? Randy

There are 3 different STC's for installing sticks, the original Lischer sticks, Don Bartholowmew's version (NV), and Jim Thomason's STC (SC) The STC for the Lischer sticks is held by Monte Zema (WA) (509) 684-2601 Don Bartolomew can be reached at: spectro@nanosecond.com .  Jim Thomason can be reached at: mountville@aol.com. I'm not sure of prices, I think they are between 2,000 and 3,000 dolllars.-- Jim

Subj: Fwd: elevator pulleys
From: Eddie Shields <WVSWIFT>
Jim,  Do you know the part number to the elevator cable pulleys at sta 62?? I need two and cant find p/n .. I wanted to order on line with SWIFTPARTS.COM Thanks -- Eddie

I went over to the airport and measured those pulleys at sta. 62. They are 2" dia. measured a the major diameter. I looked in Aircraft Spruces' catalogue and I believe that is an AN210-3A pulley. -- Jim

Subj: Yoke tubes
From: Don Cumpston <donandsue@usachoice.net>
Jim: On my Swift the Yoke tubes are worn on the bottom at neutral position. Can these tubes be rotated 180 degrees? How much of a job is it and is it practical? Thanks, Don

Yes, that is a good idea and has been done. How hard it is depends on your physical condition! I have done it several times. Some guys apply 2" wide Teflon tape to the bottom of the tubes. Others have used Teflon tubing just the right size to slip over the tubes, then shrunk it down tight with heat. They have found this tubing marketed as "roll wrap" - sold for rollers - I think in the printing industry. -- Jim

Subject: Re: December #2 GTS Internet Update - comment
From: John Lindley <johnlindley@compuserve.com>
Another hidden place for drag in the elevators are the rollers that are inside the control yoke tubes. I'm sure that you know this, but it took me a long time to find them. Jack

Jack - You're absolutely right. I should have mentioned that. If the grease has dried up in those bearings they can rotate hard. Also, I know of at least one case where the bearings were replaced and they were just slightly bigger than the 1946 originals, and made the elevators even harder to move. About all I could think of in that instance was to polish the square shaft down a couple thousandths. -- Jim

Subj: Painting & Washer Questions
From: Jeff Wimmer <jwimmer@fleetweather.com>
Hi Monty:
N78276 is FINALLY in the paint shop being prepped for her new set of clothes.... By the way, it's amazing how much damage you don't notice until cleaning up and prepping the aircraft! It had a bunch of hail dings that we never knew were there!!! Even though it was bare, it wasn't polished, and the dings were not apparent in the dull aluminum. Now I feel better about making the decision to paint it, as the skins were NOT in as good a shape as we thought! (So, there!!! to the people who gave me grief at "National" about my plans to paint instead of polish) Anyway, two questions: 1. The paint shop is asking about the proper procedure(s) for control surface balancing. I checked the archives and only found one brief mention about balancing the airlerons, but no detail. Is there any information, procedures or anything else regarding control surface balancing that the shop should be aware of? 2. I purchased a kit of those special washers as well as all the screws and nuts from Swift for the paint shop to use when they reassemble the control surfaces to the aircraft. They asked me today: Are those special conical washers used on ALL of the control surface bearings? The rudder too? Lastly, is there anything else we should know when they put it back together? Thanks, in advance, for your assistance! Jeff Wimmer

The ailerons are balanced 100%. This is easily checked suspending the aileron upside down from the hinge points. The rudder is not balanced, except for the aerodynamic balance of the portion of the rudder cap ahead of the hinge line. The flaps are not balanced. The elevators about 50 to 75% -- I've never exactly measured them. They are quite tail heavy when you suspend them from the hinge points. Those washers are to be used against a KS-3L bearing. The "S" denoting "swivel". The flaps and ailerons have KS-3L bearings, the elevators and rudder have K3L bearings. They don't swivel and don't need those washers. For the AN3 bolts and AN365 nuts a ratcheting box wrench is available from NAPA which works great. -- Jim

From: Bruce Ray <swiftfly@hotmail.com>
Looking into putting Sticks in my airplane. How extensive is this and who do I contact to find out about the best thing going. I just yanked the instrument panel out and thought it would be a good time to do the Sticks conversion as well. By the way there is alot of "SHTUFF" for controls...does that all come out when you do the sticks conversion. Thank you, Bruce Ray N80644

Yes, most of that extra stuff can come out. To be specific, I would call one of the STC holders to ask specific questions. There a three STC's that I know of.
Jim Thomason - 1-864-994-3131
Don Bartholomew - 1-775-782-2982
Monte Zema 1-509-684-2601

I believe they are priced between 2,000 and 3,000 dollars. They are priced between 2000 and 3000 dollars. The Thomason sticks are the cheapest and the Bartholomew sticks are the most deluxe, with ball bearings etc. I put in one set of sticks, the Lischer sticks, now owned by Monte Zema, and didn't think it was too hard a job. -- Jim

Subj: Two Throttles?
From: Bruce Ray <brucelray@yahoo.com>
I have just finished installing the Thomason sticks in my swift and the STC calls only for "moving" the throttle/throttle quadrant to the left side if desired. With this you have to put the placard "Solo from left seat only" Are there any STC's that will allow for leaving the throttle in the middle and adding an additional throttle cable on the left side. I guess the reason that I would like to do this is because I fly helicopters for a living and find it more easy to use the stick in my right hand and the throttle in my left. Let me know what you think. Thank you again for all your hard work and dedication to the Swifters. Bruce Ray N80644 Enterprise, AL

I don't know of any STCs that specifically call that out, but I would think that if you left the original throttle at the center of the panel and had two throttles that would work Ok. Do you want to solo from the right? -- Jim

Subj: Re: Two Throttles?
From: Bruce Ray <brucelray@yahoo.com>
I may have confused you. This STC does not allow a second throttle to be installed. It only says you can move it. I was wanting to have a throttle in the middle and on the left. That way someone could fly with me and have a throttle as well. I certainly don't want to solo from the right...NO BRAKES>..yikes! Let me know if there is a way to have two throttles. -- Bruce

Why don't you go to the man himself and ask him? Jim Thomason <MOUNTVILLE@aol.com> should know. I think Roy Harmening had a field approval on two throttles. <swift63rh@aol.com> Jim

Subj: grease
From: Jerry Bauerle <jbauerle@i-55.com>
Jim, what kind of grease do you use in the flight control bearings? -- Jerry Bauerle

Asuming you have a bearing greaser (available from Aircraft Spruce and others) Aeroshell 5 works fine. -- Jim